By Philippe Broad

PARIS, 11 AUGUST 2007—In the latter days of the Roman republic, red mullet was a delicacy that only the richest of  Rome's elite classes could afford to serve to their guests. Today, grilled red mullet fish with Pastis is a Provençal tradition and a summer favourite for many in France.

Serves 4

1 k baby Red Mullet
Dried Fennel storks
Olive oil
Salt
1 small glass of Pastis

1. For baby red mullet freshly caught in rocky waters, there is no need either to gut or trim them. Their scaly armour provides perfect protection from the extreme heat of the grill whilst ensuring that the fish retain all their delicate bouquet and flavours. It will fall away easily as soon as the fish are cooked.

2. Spread an oven tray with aluminum foil and losely cover with a bed of dried fennel shoots. Lay the baby red mullet directly on the fennel on their sides, lightly drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Place under a hot grill. Cooking should last just a few minutes and needs watching. Turn the fish over half way through. Remove from heat as soon as the fish are ready, pour over evenly a small glass of heated pastis and flambé. Possible garnishes : a roquette salad or a bohémienne.

Serve with a chilled Blanc de Cassis ou Rosé de Provence.