Rossini on Food
Five Masterpieces
Cannelloni alla Rossini
Warm some olive oil and clarified
butter in a pan. Add garlic, onion, white veal, salt, pepper, and
rosemary. Cook it with white wine. Pass everything through a meat grinder
and add an egg yolk, cream, grated parmesan, ricotta, cinnamon, and boiled
spinach. Mix everything together and place it in a pastry-tube and fill
the required number of cannelloni. Place the cannelloni in a tureen with
tomato sauce. Top them with bechamel sauce and place them in the oven.
When the cannelloni has almost finished cooking, take it out of the oven
and add a sprinkle of parmesan. Place the tureen back into the oven until
the cannelloni becomes crispy.
(Recipe by Modesto
Lanzone, owner of the "Modesto Lanzone Opera Olaza" of San
Francisco.)
Wrap three half-filets of Dover
sole around a slice of foie gras of the same thickness. Tie them and steam
them for three minutes. Prepare a champagne-based sauce using the
carcasses of the soles. Finish cooking, "en papillottes",
wrapped in aluminium foil, with half a fresh shallot and half a black
truffle, in the oven for twenty minutes.
(Recipe by Mauro
Vincenti, owner of the "Rex" and the "Piazza" in Los
Angeles.)
Make an incision in each
pheasant breast and stuff it with a blend of butter and foie gras flavored
with aromatic herbs. Cook in a pan with clarified butter, and deglaze with
Madeira. Serve garnished with a thin slice of foie gras and slithers of
truffles sprinkled with Madeira sauce.
(Recipe by Roberto
Pregare, director of the "Raffles Hotel" in Singapore)
Prepare the turkey and insert 1
3/4 ounces of thinly sliced black truffles under the skin, taking care not
to tear it. Prepare the stuffing using a further 1 3/4 ounces of black
truffles and a similar quantity of bacon, salt, pepper, and a spoon of
Madeira. Put the turkey aside for 12 hours. Stuff the turkey just before
cooking it. Truss the turkey, remembering to bard lard strips across the
breasts. Place the turkey in an oven at 300°F for three hours. Just
before serving, take out the turkey, remove the lard bands, and put the
turkey back into the oven for 15 minutes to brown the breasts. Remove the
turkey from the oven and serve on a dish with extra virgin olive oil,
salt, and pepper. Complete the recipe with a seperate side dish of
Neapolitan round potatoes, peeled and roasted whole.
(Recipe
by Pierluigi Stiaccini, owner of "La Torre di Castellina" in
Chianti)
Prepare according to the rules
a quenelle (or dumpling) stuffing using two young red partridges, blending
in some grated Parmesan cheese. Then roast two other red partridges to
prepare a game purée in the customary manner (see the first chapter
on soups). Make a soup by reducing the stock to one half of its original
volume in the same manner as for the Neapolitan macaroni soup, adding the
partridge carcasses and a knife point of coarse ground pepper. Next,
blanch twelve ounces of small-size Neapolitan macaroni in boiling water.
Drain and then simmer the macaroni for 25 minutes in half of the reduced
stock, adding some coarse ground pepper and four ounces of butter. Just
before serving, poach the small partridge quenelles in the stock. Drain
the quenelles and the macaroni. Then, sauté them, turning them two
or three times in a sauté pan while adding the prepared partridge
purée, which has been pre-heated in a double-boiler. Cover the
bottom of the soup tureen with macaroni, sprinkle four ounces of grated
Parmesan cheese over them, adding a layer of small quenelles, a layer of
Parmesan, a layer of macaroni, a layer of Parmesan, and a final layer of
quenelles. Similarly, garnish the soup by masking it with Parmesan and
sprinkling it with the macaroni broth and a little of the stock. Serve
what remains of the reduced stock in a silver casserole.
(Antonin
Carême, l'Art de la Cuisine Française, Vol. I).
Referring to this dish, Carême said "This recipe is worthy of the great gourmet-musician!"
Alessandro Falassi, cultural anthropologist and Member of the Italian Academy of Cuisine, is the world's leading expert on "Rossinian Cuisine". He is author of the book En la mesa con Rossini published by Circulo de Lectores, Barcelona.
Other publications on
Rossinian cuisine include:
A tavola con Rossini by Franco Ridolfi -
Published by Fortuna in Pesaro
In cucina con Rossini by Paolo
Cecchini - Published by Panini in Modena
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